A Porto Getaway!

Cruising on the Douro

By Ana Patuleia Ortins

Now

 Dining on the Douro

that you have decided to go to Portugal, specifically a Porto Getaway, let the planning begin!  I hope I can help you plan your Porto Getaway or at least lead you in the right direction.  I am not writing this with AI, this is really me.  Since having personally been there multiple times, I want to give you my real personal experience, not a canned review.  It isn’t written by someone who hasn’t even set foot on the Portuguese mainland. Like anywhere you travel, for a Porto getaway, planning for transportation, hotels, restaurants, and tours, planning ahead is important. It should be done before you even set foot on the plane but leaving some flexibility for changes.

You don’t want a rigid itinerary, but you want some sense of having your ducks in a row.  There is so much to plan for, in a Porto getaway.  You want to enjoy it and do it without stressing. Plan your itinerary at least 6 months in advance, then you will have better choices and lots of enjoyment. If you wish to take a tour, book with knowledgeable companies from Porto, not from outside Portugal.  A Porto company is available year-round and is well versed of the ins and outs of Porto. If you are like me and like to plan your own, continue reading. Some of my info will overlap.

Plan your Itinerary!

First, you need to decide on how many days you plan to spend in Portugal. How many days would you like to spend in Lisbon, in Porto, in Portugal overall? Let us say you are thinking of going to Portugal for 8 days.  If possible, so you don’t feel rushed during your Porto getaway, make it 10 days to allow two for traveling to Portugal and recuperating from jet lag. Plan another one or two from Portugal to home. Adjust your days in between according to where you want to spend your time and how many hotels you feel like checking in and out of.  Some folks prefer to go to just one hotel, two tops, and use it as their base.  That is where the next decisions are affected.

Depending on your budget and the time of arrival in Lisbon or Porto (if that is the case), book an extra day at your hotel as a late arrival. That allows you to go to your room upon arrival rather than waiting for the check in time of 2 or 3 pm. Personally, I almost never sleep on a plane, so when my flight arrives at 8:30 am, I can go directly to my room. We catch some shuteye sleep and are refreshed for the rest of the day. It is possible to do Porto and the surrounding area in about 3 to 4 days or see the Porto highlights in 2 to 3 days.  There is also lots to see in Lisbon and in between as well. Be sure to bring good non-skid footwear to navigate the streets and sidewalks especially in Porto and Lisbon.  They are necessary for the slippery cobblestone sidewalks and roads.

Travel Insurance

Should you get travel insurance? Whether it is for your Porto getaway or elsewhere, from my personal experience, yes, you should. When booking your plane tickets, you should include purchasing travel insurance. It will cover any unexpected accidents, cancellations, and health. Should an emergency arrive that requires a trip to the hospital, go to CUF, a private hospital which is newer and has faster service. The other is a public hospital and there is a long wait. I can tell you from personal experience, be aware, the hospitals do not accept outside insurance. If their credit card machine isn’t working, you will need to pay cash, in Euros.

Bookings

Second, as soon as you are sure about your dates for your Porto getaway, book your plane, then hotels, and a car, if you are renting one.  Book your hotels, and tours (if that is what you are planning) from home. Reconfirm all your bookings two weeks before departure so that there are no surprise errors when you get there. Think about when and which restaurant you would like to try. Book restaurant reservations from here as well. You can always cancel it.

Hotels

It would be wise, for your Porto getaway, to book a hotel in Lisbon, at the beginning, for a night or two. Then book a hotel for Porto with a follow up stay in Lisbon, before heading back home. If time allows, book a hotel midway in Caldas da Rainha. For Porto, in the event you choose to drive there, pick a hotel, preferably one that has a parking garage.  While there are less expensive hotels in the area, the beautiful Intercontinental Hotel (my favorite), does have a parking garage. It is just a 5-to-10-minute walk around the corner and across the street from the train station.

There are lots of sights to see in the area that can be explored on foot and the train is nearby. It isn’t that far from one of the world’s most beautiful bookstore, Livraria Lello,  which was built in 1881. When I drove to Porto, I left the car at the hotel. I did not use it again until we were leaving for Lisbon. Ubers and taxis were used for places that were too far for walking. Whether you are in Lisbon or Porto, if you are out and too tired to walk back to your hotel, always call your hotel to send a taxi or Uber to your location. It is safer and you will be less likely to be scammed. There is always a bad apple driver to make the good ones look bad.

Location, Location, Location

Check out other Porto hotels like Vincci Ponte de Ferro, located across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia or Yotel Porto. Prices for hotels in Porto range from just under $100 with a view of the river to over $300 plus per night. The “star” rating on hotels in Portugal is not the same as in the United States. Check out an area with activities that spark your interest, like those that focus on art, museums, or wineries. Try to get a hotel central to more than one interest. We chose near the São Bento train station.

If you are driving, book another hotel on the return to Lisbon. Plan a stay, for a day or two, at a hotel in Caldas da Rainha. The Sana Silver Coast Hotel has a garage, and it is across the street from a lovely park. There, you can rent a boat to row on their peaceful pond amid the swans and ducks and visit Obidos and the surrounding area.

Transportation

Third, think about transportation for your Porto getaway. Consider the costs of renting, how often you will actually use it versus the cost of just taking trains, buses, trains, Ubers, taxis or private day tours. Should you do decide to drive from Lisbon to Porto, make sure you reserve your desired car to be picked up and dropped off at the airport, not the downtown area.  With the exact dates, before you fly there, be sure to coordinate those dates with your hotel stay.

If I may suggest, upon arrival in Portugal, take a taxi or Uber to your hotel and spend the first night or so in Lisbon and rest up. On the reserved date, check out of your hotel, pick up your reserved car at the airport and head to Porto. Keep in mind Portugal has highway tolls and the rentals have transponders built in. The tolls will be charged to your credit card in one lump sum. Put the hotels address into the GPS. I have used Eurocar without any issue and the cars were great.  As with any rental, on pick up and turn in, for your own protection, take a photo or video all around the car. Make sure all 4 sides of the exterior are taken for proof of pre-rental condition. Make sure you learn about Portugal’s traffic rules.

Driving versus Not Driving

Driving to Porto, you will not see some great coastal views or beautiful countryside unless you go the slower coastal roads because the highway has tall sound deadening barrier walls that block your views. It is a long drive on the highway, about 3 hours and about 4 hours or more on the slower coastal road where you will likely want to make multiple stops. However, driving in Lisbon or Porto itself is not necessary and with good footwear you can enjoy exploring by walking. Some tour companies as well as Ubers and taxis will also transfer you to and from the airport and locations of interest.

Not driving? Take the train to Porto or get a transfer company to take you there and get the train back. It is faster by train;  just a little over 2 ½ hours on the fast train. Not only is it less expensive to take the train to Porto, you can relax and enjoy the beautiful scenery. The Sao Bento train station in Porto is magnificent.  Beautiful blue and white tile scenic murals, depicting travelers and Portuguese life, adorn the enormous walls. Since you can do walking tours in both cities, and explore on foot, you don’t need to rent a car for the whole time. With the cost of rentals, it may be cheaper to just take the train to Porto.  Consider making a day trip by train to Sintra. Again, you can take a private tour, taxis, buses and Ubers.  Do not drive in the city itself as the parking and traffic is a challenge.

Activities

A Porto getaway is even more relaxing when you leave the driving to someone else. Think about hiring private tour companies to customize day trips to your preferences around Porto. Must do activities are plentiful. Among them are taking a day tour to Braga and the town of Guimarães, the first capital of Portugal.  Rich in history, Guimarães is a charming town that should not be missed.

Visit the wine cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia and enjoy the experience of port wine tastings and learn about the process and history of Port wine. A Porto getaway will not be complete without a visit to vineyards like Van Zellar and Dona Maria and more. Check out Graham’s Port and others for a tasting.

Explore the historical, beautiful and very popular bookstore, Livraria Lello. When you walk in the door, the first thing that grabs your attention is the iconic red staircase. It is a piece of architecture to behold with craftmanship details that are simply a marvel.

Nearby is the Clerigos Church and Bell Tower where you can climb the many, many stairs of the bell tower and catch an awesome view of the city. Visit the historical Bulhão Market which has been around for well over a century.  I was fortunate to visit Bulhão Market with all the charm of the old market.  Fairly recent renovations removed much of the old market charm, but the colorful character of the market and the people who work it, is still intact. It is still filled with the stalls of various Portuguese breads, cheeses, hand crafted items, dish towels, and you can get some up-close tips on cleaning fish.

Cruise Anyone?

Be sure to cruise the Douro River, but don’t be in a hurry. These are very s-l-o-o-w cruises. They are so slow they make you feel as if you were just drifting and floating along. It is so relaxing. Make sure to bring sunglasses, a hat and sunscreen and light sweater or jacket. If you are looking for a speed boat, skip the cruise.

For excursions on the Douro, there are a few options to fit both your itinerary and budget.  There are a few companies like Viking and Cruzeiros  and others that offer cruises ranging from 1 hour to even 10 days. For example, you can take an inexpensive 1 hour cruise from Gaia, which takes you over to the Dona Maria Pia Bridge, designed by Eiffel and the Dom Luis 1 Bridge.  Then there is a half-day cruise in which you travel one way by a scenic train ride to the town of Régua and return by boat to Vila Nova de Gaia where you can get a taxi back to your hotel or stop for dinner on the way.

Options

You also have an option of traveling by riding on the spectacular scenic train line called Linha do Douro. It travels past Régua and Pinhão over towards the border of Spain and return by boat or reverse. Often times you can pick which direction you want to go by train, – going or coming.  On board the boat you will have a delicious lunch of traditional dishes and be entertained with traditional Portuguese music and singing.  The boat segment will take you through the fascinating locks where you will experience the rising up or lowering down of the boat to the water level on the other side of the dam. If you have never gone through the Panama Canal, this is for you. Research the different cruise companies and what they offer.

If you are not fond of the water, it is possible to travel by car or with a tour company.  One that is well-versed and knowledgeable of the Douro and the vineyards is Catavino Tours run by Ryan Opaz and his wife Gabriella. They will customize to your preferences.

The Douro Cruises range from the one-hour length to overnights.  These cruises are abundant with a tranquility that enable you to wind down and enjoy the Douro River and all it has to offer. Take in breathtaking views of the lush green Douro Valley hillsides, covered with terraced vineyards as you cruise to Pinhão where you will enjoy a wonderful dinner at your floating overnight hotel.

Hungry?

Speaking of dinner, there are so many restaurants and so little time. You cannot leave Porto without dining on the Douro waterfront or as I say, “dining on the ribeira”. My favorite place which gives a phenomenal view of the river, as do many other restaurants, is actually called the Ribeira. When the evening brought on cool breezes off the water, the waiter came out with blankets to toss on our shoulders, and it was early August. The food and atmosphere is perfect with lights along and across the river.

Another great but pricy restaurant, Vinum, is at Graham’s Port Winery. Reservations are highly suggested especially for the outdoor terrace which gives spectacular views looking down the river. Be sure to request the terrace. Elegant food is their calling card.  We were splurging and my grandson at just 13, enjoyed his dinner of braised oxtail to the last bite.  They will hold reservations for just 15 minutes.  There are many other restaurants, casual and dressy, with wonderful food, but be sure to make reservations before you leave home to go to Porto. Most restaurants are booked a month in advance.

Lighter Fare

Be sure to try the iconic Porto sandwich called the Francesinha before leaving Porto. Though not for the cholesterol-challenged, it is like a Portuguese-style Croque Madame. Capa Negra and Santiago, in Porto, are two other popular restaurants known for their Francesinhas. The recipe is in my book, Authentic Portuguese Cooking. 

Another historical restaurant is the Majestic Café.  If it is still on the menu, be sure to order Bacalhau João do Porto.  In the early days of The Majestic Café, it was a meeting place where poets and artists gathered and where politics were discussed. Political discussion by the men took place in one section, while the women had their lunch or tea in another one. The original décor will bring you back in time. Rumor has it that it may be under new management.

Extra Place of Interest

As a suggestion, if you can, be sure to visit the historical, medieval walled town of Obidos which isn’t far from Caldas da Rainha. Even if you are not driving, take a tour from Lisbon to Obidos.

Be sure to walk the town and visit all the shops.  Have lunch or dinner and follow it up with a taste of the best Sour Cherry Licor.  Ginja de Obidos, is the best Sour Cherry Licor  and  it is served in a chocolate cup.  The castle itself, originally built by the Moors, is now a hotel and booking a room requires planning well ahead.

Feeling hot? Not far from Caldas da Rainha, you can enjoy a day at the beach in Foz do Arelho, where the saltwater Lagoon is calm enough for swimming. When you are ready, head back to the Hotel Sana Silver Coast for a delicious dinner and a relaxing evening stroll.

Winding Down

Are you flying in and out of Lisbon versus in and out of Porto for your Porto getaway? After your hotel  checkout from your trip north, return the car to the airport.  Then by taxi or Uber go to your hotel in Lisbon.  Enjoy your remaining time of your Porto Getaway in Lisbon. I know Lisbon works for me because I travel around the country.  After my initial days in Lisbon, via taxi or a transfer company, I can pick up my reserved rental at the airport and drop it off there when done. Then after dropping it off, I enjoy my remaining time enjoying Lisbon, walking the city, enjoying the night life, restaurants and my favorite Fado haunts, especially in the Alfama neighborhood. It is a must to stop by in the Belem neighborhood for the famous Pastel de Belem or treat yourself at Confeitaria Nacional, gorgeous bakery cafe at Praça de Figueira, just off Rossio Square, for a Berlim donut and coffee. Stroll over to a taberna for an evening snack and enjoy the night life. I take a taxi or Uber as needed to an interesting local destination and finally to the airport to come home.

More Food in Lisbon

Check out restaurants like the best chicken place, Bom Jardim, which is just around the corner from Casa de Alentejo. You will get some of the best dishes representing the Alentejo region at Casa de Alentejo. It has a lovely Moorish lobby, and the restaurant is on the second floor. Both are in what I call “restaurant row”. Restaurant row is across from the train station at Rossio Square, near the Avenida Liberdade across from the Avenida Palace Hotel.

Other restaurants to try in Lisbon are Solar de Presunto, O Pescador, Sr. Bacalhau. For deep pockets, Belcanto which is booked months in advance is a Michelin star restaurant. Many reasonable cafes and small restaurants are everywhere.  Timeout Market is very busy, but just outside, to the right of the entrance, is a little place that makes Bacalhau à Bras so-o good!

If you are looking for a dinner and a show, O Faia is a touristy spot that serves up a great meal and great Fado. In the Alfama, I like to haunt the little places where the atmosphere of seasoned and aspiring fado singers perform their art.

If you are a Vegetarian or Vegan, have no worries.  There are many new vegetarian and vegan restaurants in addition, other restaurants are now offering vegetarian and vegan dishes.

In Summary

Whatever you decide for your Porto getaway, research and plan ahead, make your reservations, make up your itinerary. Print it out or keep it on your cell phone with all the contact info should you need to make changes. There is so much more to going to Porto, but everyone’s needs and preferences are different.

If you want to take a good tour, hire a company in Porto that is well versed in the ins and outs of Porto and the surrounding area. You can book directly with them.  It is the best bang for your buck.  A few to check out are www.Catavinotours.com, which also does Lisbon, www.EuropeBalcony.com (also does Lisbon and other locations outside of the city), and www.CooltourOporto.com.  There is also a www.CooltourLisbon.com.   There is a tour in Porto for everyone- the foodie, history buffs, families, art enthusiasts and adventurists. Be aware restaurants in Portugal do not rush food or service.  Be patient, be kind and above all else, enjoy it all! Happy travels!